Intro to Freight Trains - Getting Around (Part 3)

   Just to start with, I have to point out that this post -- along with any others on the topic later -- will be a bit sparse. It won't be enough to really get started; it's mostly just to give you a basic idea of what things are, and how they work. Always take anything that anyone says about this topic with a grain of salt, myself included. I have less experience here than many others, and am far from being an expert; so this will really just be a primer. There are some things I need to discuss up front.
   First, hopping freight trains is illegal. From the moment you set foot on railroad property, through getting on and off trains, until you leave railroad property, you are breaking laws. I do not condone or advocate that you do anything illegal*. Expect to deal with the bulls (railroad police). They aren't rent-a-cops or company security; they are actual cops owned by the railroad companies.. If you run into them, expect to get a ticket at best, or jail time if things get shitty.
   Secondly, in case this didn't seem like common sense already: freight trains are thousands of tons of unyielding steel, with hundreds of moving parts, going very fast. In other words, if you treat them like toys, they will not hesitate to smash, rip, and smear you into a mile long splatter mark. I definitely DO NOT suggest that you go anywhere near trains if you can't be relatively safe around them**. You don't have to be afraid of them, but for fucks-sake, show them some respect! Don't even think of hopping on one until you've got some idea of what you're looking for, what parts to avoid, what not to do, etc.. I'll try to cover this more later.
   Thirdly, there are some things that I won't post out of respect, common sense, or because I don't feel like dealing with the legal problems that would pop up. I won't be posting anything out of the CCG unless it's information that's readily available elsewhere. I won't be posting hopout spots, details about specific trains, etc; because I'd rather not see things get blown up anymore than they already are.
   Usually, if you look for advice on this topic, the most you'll get is the standard statement that the only way to start is to find someone who already hops freight and is willing to take you with them/show you the ropes. This is probably your best bet, and you should probably do this if you can. If you can't find anyone, it's not necessarily the end of the world; I started hopping alone, so it can be done, it's just not a good idea.
   Now that the disclaimers are out of the way, let's get started. We'll start with some of the basic railways. This will be pretty boring, but it will help you understand where you are, where you're headed, and what other people are talking about.
   Railroads fall into different categories based on how much freight they move. At the higher end are the big four, officially referred to as Class I railroads; they are: CSX, Norfolk Southern, Union Pacific (UP), and BNSF. After that there are the shortlines -- Class II and III. They don't tend to go very far (in case you hadn't gathered from the name), and you'll probably only have to deal with them on rare occasions. For the most part, you'll probably find yourself sticking to the four main railways pretty often (unless you actively choose to do otherwise, shortlines can be fun too).
   For the most part, UP and BNSF are mostly found from the West Coast to about the Mississippi River, while Norfolk Southern and CSX run from around the East Coast to about the Mississippi. If you want to go from one coast to another, you'll have to change from one railway to another. The lines themselves (much like the highways and interstates) are a bit more of a dense, complicated network in the East, and more of an open, grid-like network in the West. You can see the basic layout of their routes below:
 

   There are a few specific routes you'll probably hear mentioned occasionally. The Hi Line is the BNSF line from Seattle to Minneapolis. The Overland is the UP line from Roseville CA to Chicago. The Sunset Route is the UP line from Los Angeles to New Orleans (some people will mistakenly call this the "Low Line", but that's actually a part of the Hi Line that runs through Montana). BNSF has a line the runs from LA to Houston, called The Southern Transcon officially, but I've heard people confuse it with the low line and sunset route.
  Once you know which company you're dealing with, which way the train is headed, and where that company's tracks go; you can usually tell where it's headed. Crews have to change every shift (about 8 hours); so look for the next city down the line, within 8 hours travel, that has a freight yard for that company; and it's likely to go that way.
   If you run with just that information you can do fine pretty often. Other details can change that (types of cars, local/seasonal traffic patterns, nearby industries, and such); so if that's all you have to go on, only catch out if you're okay with ending up in a town you didn't expect, or the middle of nowhere.
   You can get a better idea of where the train will go if you have access to timetables (they can frequently be purchased online), or a Crew Change Guide (a hand copied zine carried by many travelers). You can occasionally get good advice from other train hoppers, but don't go around thinking anyone owes you anything, and don't assume that they actually know what they're talking about.
   Be ready to end up in places you won't like, to wait for long stretches of time, to hike for miles with all of your gear, to get hassled by cops, and to get very dirty. Once you accept this things, freight trains are one of the greatest ways to travel, and to see parts of the country that nobody else will see.

 




  

 


* - As long as you imagine me saying this in a sarcastic tone while making "air-quotes" with my fingers, then this disclaimer is completely true.
** - Seriously this time. Don't do it. I'm not fucking kidding.

Getting Around (Part 2)

   Back to hitchhiking again. We've really only looked at the basic outline so far; there's still plenty to discuss before we move past hitchhiking. This post is mostly going to be disorganized rambling, just to cover some basic tips and alternatives.
   Working from where we left off, once your ride pulls over, what now? Grab your stuff, and walk up to the passenger side door. Ask them how far they're headed, and see if they'd be willing to drop you off on the far side of the last large town on their way.
   Another concern is where to get dropped off. Unless you can get a ride the whole way to your destination, you'll want dropped at another location that would be good to hitch from. Obviously, you want to find a spot on the other side of town (south side if you're headed south). Look for a ramp that's a likely stop for long range traffic; preferably an exit with gas stations/truck stops, fast food restaurants, and/or motels.
   In some areas, short rides might not be worth it. In states that don't allow you to walk the interstate/highways, a ride to a smaller town a couple miles down the road will just get you stranded. If that's the case, your best bet is to politely decline. In states where you can walk along the interstates/highways, it's probably worth accepting.
   If you happen to be in a state where you can walk along the interstates, then that's going to be an even better place to hitch from than the ramps, since all of the traffic headed your way will be passing you. In that case, find a long, straight stretch and stand on the shoulder/berm where you'll be visible from a relatively long distance (they'll be driving a lot faster than the traffic on the ramps.) You might as well stay within a half-hours hike of a convenience store or gas station for food and drink, unless you know there's more ahead of you or you've packed enough for a while (running out of water sucks).
   Truck stops are another option. Along with being able to refill your water bottle/jug, eat, and even shower or do laundry, you can also catch a ride out of truck stops. Truck stops and gas stations are pretty much the only option after it gets dark. Try to find one by an on-ramp, with plenty of vehicles coming and going. There are a few ways to get a ride out. You can ask drivers directly (asking truckers at the pumps tends to work). You can also just grab something to eat/drink, and sit outside with your pack and sign visible nearby. Either way, if you get in the way too much, or customers complain, you will probably be told to leave the property. Some truck stops are more likely to kick you out than others (TA is notoriously intolerant of hitchhikers, even if you're not trying to hitch from their property), while some places are very friendly towards hitchhikers. Sometimes it's company policy; other times it comes down to how the employees/managers react.
   If you do get told to leave a truck stop, you can still go back to the on-ramp, or try to get a ride from the lot exit that the trucks use to leave the truck stop (basically the same way you would hitch from a ramp).
   While interstates are usually the easiest way to go, especially long distances, state and U.S. routes are another option. In fact, interstates and US routes often run similar paths (US-1/I-95 on the East Coast, US-101/I-5 on the West Coast). US and state routes are generally slower, due to lower speed limits and more short range traffic, but they also tend to have better scenery and go through smaller towns. Until the interstates were built, the old US routes were the hitchhiking path of choice for hippies, beatniks, and hobos for most of the 20th century (fun fact: the first coast-to-coast Interstate highway, I-80, was finished in 1986, but the whole network wasn't completed until 1992).

Time to Sleep (Part 3)

   Since the easiest place to sleep is usually the great outdoors, let's look at some of the things to look for in a good camp spot.
   Area-wise, if you're trying to get out of town and realize the sun is going down, there's usually plenty of land along the highways and railroad tracks that's relatively overlooked by most people, and just a short ways away from you. You want to be far enough from the road that you're not likely to get hit if a car crashes; either uphill or with some sturdy trees between you and them is best. It's best if you're not visible from the road, or you might wake up to the highway patrol telling you to move along.
   The area along railroad tracks (called the jungle) is usually the most private, aside from the occasional train passing by in the night. Try to stay far enough away, and/or uphill, that you won't get hit by stones or debris kicked up by trains.
   If you don't have a tarp or tent, you might need to come up with some sort of shelter if it rains. Bridges and overpasses often have a ledge right under the point where they meet the road. If not, there's usually still somewhere underneath that's good enough for one night. In forests, you can always duck under pine/spruce/fir trees with lots of branches, there's usually an area around the trunk that's protected from the rain. Just make sure the branches over your head are dense enough (spruce and fir are the best for this).
   Try to pick a spot where the ground will drain the rainwater away from you. If you sleep in a ditch or depression, you'll wake up in a puddle if it rains. Clear away sticks, small stones, and debris; they suck to sleep on and will poke holes in gear. Look around for animal/insect nests, dens, etc; if you see anything obvious, consider moving unless it's harmless (like a birds nest).
   Look around and above you. If you see anything that looks like it will fall on you in your sleep (like dead trees) try to find somewhere better. If there's a storm coming, make sure you're not camping under any particularly tall trees; try to stay to lower ground as well, just not somewhere that will collect water.
   If you happen to be in a more developed area, like the middle of the city, there are still a few places that nobody really looks. The space between bushes/hedges and fences/walls is a really good spot, just take a look to make sure you're not too visible. If you're worried about rain, the space between the rear wheels of a big-rig trailer is usually a good spot; just make sure there isn't a truck attached, and that it looks like it hasn't moved in quite a while (you don't want run over). I've met people who insist that camping on top of buildings is one of their favorite spots, but I've never done it, and can't really give any advice on it.
   If you happen to be hitching and get stuck at a truck stop, there is often a small patch of woods behind the place. As long as you don't bother anyone, and aren't too visible they usually won't bother you if you camp there. The same goes for highway rest areas, as long as they're not on an island in between lanes. An added bonus to the truck stops is the availability of a warm breakfast, hot coffee, and a shower.
   The number of places to crash outside is generally only limited by your creativity and experience. The best thing to do is try to spot places to sleep before the sun goes down. Some spots will look secluded and hidden at night, but be way too visible in the daylight.

Your Backpack

   I first mentioned the backpack in What to Bring Part 1, and it's about time to look at it in more detail. There are a lot of different things to look for in a backpack, and it helps to know what's useful.
   If you're just making a short trip, or don't feel like more than the essentials; then you can just grab a small daypack. Whether it's a school-style backpack, or an ultralight hiking pack, a daypack is a small, frameless pack that won't stand out too much, and won't get in the way. If you're planning on carrying less than 20 or 30 pounds, this is the best bet. They usually don't have too many extra features, so there's not much to know about them.
   Most larger packs (and some daypacks) come with a hip-belt. This is a set of wider, usually padded, straps that buckle around your hips. When your pack is all properly adjusted, and the hip-belt is clipped, it shifts most of the weight off of your shoulders and onto you're hips. You should feel about 2/3 of the weight on your hips, and only 1/3 on your shoulders. This lets your legs do most of the work, and lowers the risk of seriously messing up your spine over time. Use this as often as you can, even if you're only walking a block, it'll save a lot of energy.
   Between the shoulder straps, you'll find a smaller strap with a buckle. This is the sternum strap. It's height can be adjusted, as well as it's tightness. This strap shifts a lot of the weight from the shoulder muscles to the chest. Between the sternum strap and hip-belt, you shouldn't have much weight on your shoulders. This is important, because your shoulders wear out easily, and since they connect to your spine, can make your whole back hurt if they're strained or unevenly loaded.
   External frame packs have a large, usually metal, frame, onto which the pack itself is attached. Other items, like sleeping bags and pads, smaller bags, tents/tarps, etc can be lashed onto this frame, making it more versatile than internal frame packs and daypacks. They're a lot cooler in summer, since the pack itself isn't resting against you (nearly a foot of insulation on your back gets annoying fast). They're often cheaper than internal frame packs too, so they're pretty common with beginners, or as quick replacements to damaged packs.
   Internal frame packs have a frame inside the back panel. It's usually either plastic or aluminum. The aluminum ones are often adjustable, which is nice, but not something to worry about early on.  Internal frame packs also tend to have a more complex suspension system. In my opinion, they're more comfortable, and I prefer them over external frames. The lack of metal bits jutting out means that internal frames are less likely to get caught on things, easier to cram in car trunks and other tight places, and they aren't as likely to get messed up if you have to toss them over a fence.
   Along with being able to adjust the length of the shoulder straps, on internal frame packs there will be another set of straps where they connect to the top of the pack; these are the load lifter straps. Tightening them pulls the top of the pack closer to you're back, raising the center of gravity of the pack. When properly adjusted, these will form a  45 degree angle from the shoulder straps to the pack. With a higher center of gravity, you won't be bending forward as much while walking.
   There may be similar straps where the hip-belt attaches to the pack, called stabilizer straps. These help pull the pack in closer to your back. Not all packs have them, but they're on quite a few.
   On the back of many packs, you'll find straps going around the pack itself, but not connecting to anything else. These are compression straps. they're used to keep the load from shifting around too much. They can also be used to hold your tarp, cardboard, sleeping mat; just don't overload them, they aren't meant to hold much weight. Some top-loaders will also have similar straps on top specifically for holding tarps and sleeping mats.
   Some packs will have straps dangling off of the bottom, these are to hold your sleeping bag in its stuff-sack. Other packs will have an extra compartment on the bottom for this. I prefer the enclosed compartment when I can get it. It helps keep your sleeping bag from getting too messed up.
   When loading your pack, you want to keep the heaviest items, like any canned food or bottles of water, higher up, and as close to your back as possible. Keep the lightest gear, like sleeping bags, on the bottom. This way your center of balance is a bit higher, and you won't have to bend forward very far to keep your weight centered over your feet.
 
 
 

What to Bring (Part 2)

   We've taken a look at the essentials (footwear, sleeping bag, rain gear, backpack), now let's look at the things that are helpful to have, but not absolutely required. You won't die without these, and they'll start to weigh a bit when they add up. Don't expect to carry all of these, you'll figure out what you want as you go, just make sure you have the gear from the list of essentials (What to Bring - Part 1). Some of these are things I wouldn't even bother carrying myself, but other people seem to. When most people make lists of things they suggest packing, these are the things that always change, but somehow end up near the tops of lists.
  Whatever you bring, NEVER pack anything glass. NO GLASS. No glass jars, no glass bottles. Glass breaks. Your backpack is probably going to get beaten up along the way: throwing it over fences to climb them, using it as a seat to sit on, banging into trees in the woods. You don't want to reach into your pack and pull out a shredded, bloody hand.
  Road Atlas/Map - A way to figure out where you are, where you're going, and how to get there (Rail maps/timetables, a rail atlas, or CCG help if you're planning on hopping trains). Not life-or-death because even when you're in the middle of nowhere, you're probably not going to be lost; you'll be on high-traffic roads, or following railroad tracks. You can look at maps in gas stations to find a route, or change route if you don't have a map/atlas. Definitely a very important thing to have while traveling, but you aren't likely to die without one.
   Water Bottle/Canteen - Staying hydrated is important. You definitely don't want to die of thirst. If you don't feel like buying anything fancy, you can always get a gallon jug of juice (the sturdy jugs with threaded caps that some orange juice comes in work great). Stainless steel water bottles are great to boil water in with a small campfire/camp stove; boiling kills bacteria in any water you have to get from streams etc., and makes coffee/tea/etc an option. Wide mouthed plastic containers like Nalgenes are really good to have in the winter; the wider mouth is less likely to be blocked by ice, plastic insulates better and won't shatter as easily. A way to carry water should probably have been on the essentials list, but it's easy enough to improvise (I've used powerade bottles, soda bottles, gallon juice jugs, etc. a lot), that I didn't feel like cluttering that list up.
   Plastic Bags - Grocery bags are great for keeping things like clothes, food, etc. together inside your pack. Overall, you want to compartmentalize your gear with these; that way, if water gets inside your pack or something inside leaks, not everything gets soaked. They don't take up much space or weight, they're free, and have plenty of uses. Large black garbage bags were mentioned in the basic list with rain gear, and if possible, heavy duty contractor bags are best. If you have a top-loading pack, you can line the inside with one to make it more water-proof. You can cover your stuff with one to protect it from rain. You can use one as an improvised poncho in the rain. If it comes to it, you can improvise a shelter with a few. Zip-lock baggies are a great way to protect cellphones, wallets, and other small items in the rain. They're great for food (obviously), seasonings, condiment packs from restaurants. The larger freezer bags are usefull for keeping dry foods in: like instant oatmeal, granola, rice. All of these things are relatively lightweight, and compress down to a small space.
   Extra Clothes - Don't pack too many clothes. They weigh a lot, and if it comes to it, you can get more later. Aside from socks (very important), it's okay to bring a shirt or two. Bandanas can be useful sometimes, and don't weigh much or take up space. Pants are a bit heavy, I don't usually carry a second pair. You can always patch tears if you need to.
   Sewing Kit - A needle and dental floss is usually all you'll need. The floss holds up a bit better than most sewing thread. Maybe a bit of material for patches: bicycle innertube works well (and has other uses), leather works great but weighs a bit more, pretty much anything.
   Hat - It'll keep your head warm in the winter, and it will keep the sun off in the summer. Broad brimmed hats are good for the summer, providing much needed shade for your face, and ears (really important in desert areas, plains, etc). Stocking caps are good for winter, and collapse down small. Your life won't necessarily depend on one, but they're very useful to have.
   Food - You don't necessarily have to keep food on you while you move (it can attract animals in the wild, bears aren't something to mess with). You'll be able to stay to areas with grocery stores and gas stations if you choose to. On the other hand, you don't want to go hungry, or limit how far you can go from town. Pack all food together (see grocery bag/ziplock bag above) and if you're in the wilderness, store it away from where you sleep. When picking foods, aim for lightweight, non-perishable, dry goods. Instant oats, grits, instant mashed potatoes, granola, ramen, instant soup, jerky, dried fruits. Avoid things that take a while to cook, aim for things that can be eaten without cooking, or with just hot water (instant anything basically). Canned goods are too heavy; one or two cans can be okay; more than that and you'll start to feel it. You won't likely need to plan for more than 3 days away from civilization. Multivitamins are a good supplement to your diet, to keep you from getting scurvy or anything like that (take them out of the bottle and keep them in a ziplock bag to save space and weight). Condiments are great for making things taste better, grab some packets from the next fast food place, gas station, whatever. Hot sauces in particular are good to have (some, like sriracha, come in plastic bottles. Remember, no glass.)
   Drinks - Water is obviously something to have at all times, for both drinking and cooking. Instant coffee makes any morning better (you can usually get free hot water from gas-stations that serve coffee), or regular ground coffee if you have a way to prepare it, or don't mind the grounds in your cup. Tea is good. If you're traveling in the summer, you can carry some of that powdered Gatorade to make up for all of the electrolytes your body loses from sweating. Just remember to keep your water bottle clean if you're drinking anything sweet; the sugar will start to cake up in the threading around the lid and mouth.
   Knife and/or Multi-tool - Good for cutting rope/string, sticks, food. A way to protect yourself if you have to. Multi-tools are great for most utility purposes, fixed blades are good for camp and protection.
   Fire - Lighters don't take up much space or weight. Whether you smoke or not, it's good to keep one in your pocket (an extra or two in your gear isn't bad either). It can really help to have a campfire sometimes (obviously that deserves it's own page, be careful). Camp stoves are useful too, and can be relatively lightweight these days. Fire is one of the most basic skills/tools we have as humans, there's no reason to not have at least a lighter. You can get packs of matches cheap or free at most stores. They won't work when wet, but unlike lighters, they work fine in the cold.
   Cooking/Eating Gear - Get a spoon. Pretty much anything you can eat with a fork, you can eat with a spoon, or chopsticks (easy to make on the spot). If you don't want to carry one, you can just grab them from fast food places and some gas stations as you go. I've recently started carrying a travel mug, and I don't think I'll go without one again. You can drink out of it. You can use it as a bowl. Pour some instant oats and boiling water in for breakfast, right before/after coffee. You can also use the disposable coffee cups from gas stations for the same thing if you don't want to carry one. Cooking gear isn't usually necessary, but you can have some basic gear without much space or weight. Aluminum foil can be used for cooking pretty much anything that doesn't need a pot. The stainless steel water bottle listed above could count as part of your cook set (liquids only though). If all else fails, you can cook shish-kebobs over a camp fire with some sticks.
   Toilet Paper/Paper towels - Like it or not, eventually you'll be in the woods and have to shit. Toilet paper can also make good tinder to start a fire, you can use paper towels to wipe down cooking/eating gear after use. I usually try to keep a ziplock with a yard or two of t.p. in my pocket (you can just grab some from the next restroom stall you visit, same with paper towels). Just make sure to keep them dry, since you might need to use them for fire starting.
   Cordage - Rope, clothesline, whatever. Good for tying up a tarp (Time to Sleep (Part 2)), lashing gear to a pack/frame, hanging food bags when camping, leash for a dog. You won't need a lot, you're not going mountaineering. Just grab one of those small 50' coils from the dollar store or walmart it'll last nearly forever. Bungee cords work fairly well for most purposes, and you'll find lots of them along the side of the roads.
   Electronics - Cellphones (I use prepaids) are good for keeping in touch with friends and family, they can always call 911 in an emergency (even without minutes). If you can afford a smartphone, you'll have access to google maps (satellite view and street view to find spots to camp and hitch, can double as atlas/map category), music, videos; just find WiFi at a fast food place, library, etc to save minutes. If you get a free text app (I use google voice, it covers calls and texts for free), you'll be able to save a lot of minutes while around civilization. If you plan on hopping freight, some people carry radio scanners. They're supposedly great if you know how to use them; a way to find out which trains are going where, when they power up, and when the bull's been called on you. I have no clue how to use one, and haven't, but it might have made things easier. I carry a portable electric razor to trim the hair on my face/head. It helps to keep cool in the summer, and it's easier to get rides when I don't look like a feral mountain-man. Mine cost me $20 and is rechargable, the same store had $10 ones that ran on AA batteries. It's relatively lightweight, and I use it frequently enough to consider it worth having. Camera, digital or otherwise.
   Hygiene - Toothbrush, toothpaste/powder, floss. You don't want your teeth to rot out. Soap is good to have for those times you have an opportunity to shower (truckstops, motels, friends). I usually keep first-aid things with this gear: bandages, neosporin, painkillers, rubber gloves (in case you're treating someone else), whatever you find appropriate. For females, you might want to add pads/tampons, etc.
   Light - Eventually you're going to have to do something in the dark; whether it's setting up a tent/tarp, starting a campfire, looking through your gear, it helps to be able to see things. Flashlights, or better still, headlamps, are good to have around. You don't want anything big or heavy, like a Maglite; just get something small. If you can get one with a red setting, or red filter, that's even better. Red light won't mess up your night vision, and isn't quite as visible from far away.
   Repair Gear - To fix things that break along the way it helps to have a few things. Duct tape will fix most things: holes in tarps, boots, some parts of your pack. You can also get it in narrower 1" wide rolls sometimes. It helps save space if you re-roll it around a straw or piece of cardboard. Zip-ties can help out sometimes. They don't weigh much, and you don't need to keep many on you if you carry them (a dozen or so will last long enough).
   Sleeping Pad - Not really necessary unless it's cold out. They're sold at sporting goods stores, walmart, etc. No matter how warm your sleeping bag and clothing, if there's no insulation under you, you'll get cold fast. You can buy those cheap blue foam ones for about $5-10 usually. You can also use cardboard; just open a box up, cut/rip along one of the edges, and you'll usually get a 4-6 foot length of cardboard (this is what I tend to use). Those reflective, insulated windshield screens people use to keep their cars cool work well too, and and usually fold down relatively small; you can even find them laying along the side of the road every now and then.

   I'll add to this list as I think of more, and as others are suggested. Feel free to suggest items and ask questions any time.

Getting Around (Part 1)

   We've gone over basic equipment, and we've talked about how and where to sleep, but now it's time to actually talk about travel. That's why we're here. I've put it off for a bit to make sure nobody heads out and gets stranded in the middle of nowhere with no idea what to do (plenty of us have headed out with no idea what we were doing, it sucks).
   Hitchhiking seems like a good place to start. It's less of a legal hassle if the cops stop you; it's a bit more acceptable to most people, so more beginners are likely to start with it; it's less likely to land you in the middle of nowhere with no idea where you are. If things go wrong, it's not likely to be too bad (despite what movies and T.V. might imply).
   First, let's go over the horrible things we hear about hitchhiking and how those stories are exaggerated. Most of the stories hinge around the person picking you up being a crazy murderer, or you (the hitchhiker) being a crazy murderer (maybe you are, maybe you aren't; I don't know). Really, I've never had a problem with any of my rides. It does happen, from what I hear, but not anywhere near as often as people think. Almost all of your rides will come from great people, who are cool to hang out with. Jackasses are usually too self-absorbed to pick you up; so they weed themselves out of the equation most of the time (okay -- that's not so true for females; sexist douchebags do exist, and are a problem; so you still have to be prepared for jackasses)
   If you get a bad feeling from someone, just decline the offer. You don't have to get in anybody's car, you're not desperate (even if you are, don't admit it). Some people advise texting a friend the license plate number, or memorizing it, but I've never bothered. If, through some horrible series of events, you end up in a vehicle with a serial killer, please don't let them take you to the middle of nowhere; if it comes to it, you can always pull the steering wheel to crash their car (their loss more than yours, as long as you buckled up). To sum things up: it's good to have plans in case things go wrong, but they really, really aren't likely to.
 
   For now, I'll sum up the basics, and expand on it more in the next few posts. The basic process is really very simple; it's just a matter of waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.
   First, you need to find an on-ramp on the outskirts of town in the direction you want to travel. For example, if you're heading South out of town, then aim for the southernmost ramp in town, otherwise all of the southbound traffic is likely to be heading somewhere else in town. You can usually take a city bus to get there pretty cheap if it's farther than you feel like hiking. You want an on-ramp with a shoulder wide enough to pull over, long and straight enough for the drivers to notice you (and decide to pick you up), with plenty of traffic, and somewhere to stand.
   With practice, you'll find it easier to figure out which ramps are good, and which aren't worth your time, but even after years, you're still going to find yourself dealing with shitty spots. It's unavoidable, but as long as you're not in a hurry, it's not really a problem.
   Once you find your on-ramp, you need to pick a spot to stand. Make sure to choose a spot in the grass, on the edge of the shoulder, with enough room for you to set your gear down and stand comfortably. Pick an easily visible spot; standing in front of a sign works well, since it's obviously going to be visible.
   Now that you've found your spot, it's time to get a ride. If you can get a piece of cardboard (check some dumpsters), and a marker, make a sign in large, bold letters. Write either the name of your destination, or just the direction you're heading. Now, face into traffic holding your sign, or, if you somehow can't come up with one, just stick out your right arm and stick your thumb up.
   That's it, you're hitchhiking now. All that's left is the waiting part. This is where patience comes in, you're probably going to be here for a while. You're not likely to get a ride in the first few minutes, it can take hours (in some very slow spots, days, but that's not too common). Sometimes you'll start to get impatient, or feel a little hopeless; just keep going, and keep your morale up.
   I know this might not have seemed super informative, but there's not a whole lot to know about this part of it. There are websites out there that have more in-depth explanations and tips, but in the end it boils down to what I said earlier: you're just waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.

   Some other sites to look at for more information: hitchwiki.org (regional information and laws, tips, another more informative guide) ... more later if I think of/come across any.

Time to Sleep (Part 2)

   Now that we've covered the types of places you're likely to find sleep, lets look at portable shelter. You don't necessarily need to carry this stuff, but you'll be a lot better off if you do. There are plenty of options, but the main choices are tent, tarp or "bivy sack".
   Small backpacking tents, and 2-person tents are easy to find, and usually not too expensive. They're more private, better at keeping bugs and smaller animals out, warmer, and great at keeping the elements out (when treated right). On the other hand, they're the most complicated to set up, more visible, often heavier, and (unlike tarps) can't be used for anything else.
   I prefer to travel with a tarp. You can get an 8' x 10' brown heavy-duty tarp for $10-$15 pretty much anywhere. If you go with tarp, you should try to carry a bit of thin rope, like clothesline, to tie it up with. You can tie it up in a few different ways to form a shelter, as long as there are things to tie it to. You can lay it on the ground or the floor of a squatted building to keep your sleeping bag from getting grimy. If all else fails, you can wrap it around your sleeping bag to keep the rain off (moisture from your body will condense inside and make everything damp though.) It can easily be strapped onto the outside of your pack without getting in the way too much. All you really need to fix it is duct tape.
   Bivy sacks and bivy shelters are another, less common, category. A bivy sack is a water-repellent sack with a hood that you put your sleeping bag in. It's still permeable to water vapor, so it won't get clammy inside like the tarp would. A bivy shelter is somewhere in between a bivy sack and a small tent. They tend to be totally enclosed, and have a small tent-pole hoop to support it like a tiny tent. Both are very good, though a bit pricey. The sack leaves your face exposed, so it's usually used with a smaller tarp. They can usually be rolled up with your sleeping bag inside, to make carrying and set-up easier. These choices offer the lowest silhouette; you can easily set them up behind low bushes without being noticed.
   If you can get a bivy sack and small tarp, go for it; otherwise, I swear by the $10 tarp. Tents are a bit more workable if you're camping in the woods alongside railroad tracks or in the middle of nowhere, where their larger silhouette and often lighter colors aren't a big worry due to lack of people.