Since the easiest place to sleep is usually the great outdoors, let's look at some of the things to look for in a good camp spot.
Area-wise, if you're trying to get out of town and realize the sun is going down, there's usually plenty of land along the highways and railroad tracks that's relatively overlooked by most people, and just a short ways away from you. You want to be far enough from the road that you're not likely to get hit if a car crashes; either uphill or with some sturdy trees between you and them is best. It's best if you're not visible from the road, or you might wake up to the highway patrol telling you to move along.
The area along railroad tracks (called the jungle) is usually the most private, aside from the occasional train passing by in the night. Try to stay far enough away, and/or uphill, that you won't get hit by stones or debris kicked up by trains.
If you don't have a tarp or tent, you might need to come up with some sort of shelter if it rains. Bridges and overpasses often have a ledge right under the point where they meet the road. If not, there's usually still somewhere underneath that's good enough for one night. In forests, you can always duck under pine/spruce/fir trees with lots of branches, there's usually an area around the trunk that's protected from the rain. Just make sure the branches over your head are dense enough (spruce and fir are the best for this).
Try to pick a spot where the ground will drain the rainwater away from you. If you sleep in a ditch or depression, you'll wake up in a puddle if it rains. Clear away sticks, small stones, and debris; they suck to sleep on and will poke holes in gear. Look around for animal/insect nests, dens, etc; if you see anything obvious, consider moving unless it's harmless (like a birds nest).
Look around and above you. If you see anything that looks like it will fall on you in your sleep (like dead trees) try to find somewhere better. If there's a storm coming, make sure you're not camping under any particularly tall trees; try to stay to lower ground as well, just not somewhere that will collect water.
If you happen to be in a more developed area, like the middle of the city, there are still a few places that nobody really looks. The space between bushes/hedges and fences/walls is a really good spot, just take a look to make sure you're not too visible. If you're worried about rain, the space between the rear wheels of a big-rig trailer is usually a good spot; just make sure there isn't a truck attached, and that it looks like it hasn't moved in quite a while (you don't want run over). I've met people who insist that camping on top of buildings is one of their favorite spots, but I've never done it, and can't really give any advice on it.
If you happen to be hitching and get stuck at a truck stop, there is often a small patch of woods behind the place. As long as you don't bother anyone, and aren't too visible they usually won't bother you if you camp there. The same goes for highway rest areas, as long as they're not on an island in between lanes. An added bonus to the truck stops is the availability of a warm breakfast, hot coffee, and a shower.
The number of places to crash outside is generally only limited by your creativity and experience. The best thing to do is try to spot places to sleep before the sun goes down. Some spots will look secluded and hidden at night, but be way too visible in the daylight.
Friday, December 27, 2013
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Your Backpack
I first mentioned the backpack in What to Bring Part 1, and it's about time to look at it in more detail. There are a lot of different things to look for in a backpack, and it helps to know what's useful.
If you're just making a short trip, or don't feel like more than the essentials; then you can just grab a small daypack. Whether it's a school-style backpack, or an ultralight hiking pack, a daypack is a small, frameless pack that won't stand out too much, and won't get in the way. If you're planning on carrying less than 20 or 30 pounds, this is the best bet. They usually don't have too many extra features, so there's not much to know about them.
Most larger packs (and some daypacks) come with a hip-belt. This is a set of wider, usually padded, straps that buckle around your hips. When your pack is all properly adjusted, and the hip-belt is clipped, it shifts most of the weight off of your shoulders and onto you're hips. You should feel about 2/3 of the weight on your hips, and only 1/3 on your shoulders. This lets your legs do most of the work, and lowers the risk of seriously messing up your spine over time. Use this as often as you can, even if you're only walking a block, it'll save a lot of energy.
Between the shoulder straps, you'll find a smaller strap with a buckle. This is the sternum strap. It's height can be adjusted, as well as it's tightness. This strap shifts a lot of the weight from the shoulder muscles to the chest. Between the sternum strap and hip-belt, you shouldn't have much weight on your shoulders. This is important, because your shoulders wear out easily, and since they connect to your spine, can make your whole back hurt if they're strained or unevenly loaded.
External frame packs have a large, usually metal, frame, onto which the pack itself is attached. Other items, like sleeping bags and pads, smaller bags, tents/tarps, etc can be lashed onto this frame, making it more versatile than internal frame packs and daypacks. They're a lot cooler in summer, since the pack itself isn't resting against you (nearly a foot of insulation on your back gets annoying fast). They're often cheaper than internal frame packs too, so they're pretty common with beginners, or as quick replacements to damaged packs.
Internal frame packs have a frame inside the back panel. It's usually either plastic or aluminum. The aluminum ones are often adjustable, which is nice, but not something to worry about early on. Internal frame packs also tend to have a more complex suspension system. In my opinion, they're more comfortable, and I prefer them over external frames. The lack of metal bits jutting out means that internal frames are less likely to get caught on things, easier to cram in car trunks and other tight places, and they aren't as likely to get messed up if you have to toss them over a fence.
Along with being able to adjust the length of the shoulder straps, on internal frame packs there will be another set of straps where they connect to the top of the pack; these are the load lifter straps. Tightening them pulls the top of the pack closer to you're back, raising the center of gravity of the pack. When properly adjusted, these will form a 45 degree angle from the shoulder straps to the pack. With a higher center of gravity, you won't be bending forward as much while walking.
There may be similar straps where the hip-belt attaches to the pack, called stabilizer straps. These help pull the pack in closer to your back. Not all packs have them, but they're on quite a few.
On the back of many packs, you'll find straps going around the pack itself, but not connecting to anything else. These are compression straps. they're used to keep the load from shifting around too much. They can also be used to hold your tarp, cardboard, sleeping mat; just don't overload them, they aren't meant to hold much weight. Some top-loaders will also have similar straps on top specifically for holding tarps and sleeping mats.
Some packs will have straps dangling off of the bottom, these are to hold your sleeping bag in its stuff-sack. Other packs will have an extra compartment on the bottom for this. I prefer the enclosed compartment when I can get it. It helps keep your sleeping bag from getting too messed up.
When loading your pack, you want to keep the heaviest items, like any canned food or bottles of water, higher up, and as close to your back as possible. Keep the lightest gear, like sleeping bags, on the bottom. This way your center of balance is a bit higher, and you won't have to bend forward very far to keep your weight centered over your feet.
If you're just making a short trip, or don't feel like more than the essentials; then you can just grab a small daypack. Whether it's a school-style backpack, or an ultralight hiking pack, a daypack is a small, frameless pack that won't stand out too much, and won't get in the way. If you're planning on carrying less than 20 or 30 pounds, this is the best bet. They usually don't have too many extra features, so there's not much to know about them.
Most larger packs (and some daypacks) come with a hip-belt. This is a set of wider, usually padded, straps that buckle around your hips. When your pack is all properly adjusted, and the hip-belt is clipped, it shifts most of the weight off of your shoulders and onto you're hips. You should feel about 2/3 of the weight on your hips, and only 1/3 on your shoulders. This lets your legs do most of the work, and lowers the risk of seriously messing up your spine over time. Use this as often as you can, even if you're only walking a block, it'll save a lot of energy.
Between the shoulder straps, you'll find a smaller strap with a buckle. This is the sternum strap. It's height can be adjusted, as well as it's tightness. This strap shifts a lot of the weight from the shoulder muscles to the chest. Between the sternum strap and hip-belt, you shouldn't have much weight on your shoulders. This is important, because your shoulders wear out easily, and since they connect to your spine, can make your whole back hurt if they're strained or unevenly loaded.
External frame packs have a large, usually metal, frame, onto which the pack itself is attached. Other items, like sleeping bags and pads, smaller bags, tents/tarps, etc can be lashed onto this frame, making it more versatile than internal frame packs and daypacks. They're a lot cooler in summer, since the pack itself isn't resting against you (nearly a foot of insulation on your back gets annoying fast). They're often cheaper than internal frame packs too, so they're pretty common with beginners, or as quick replacements to damaged packs.
Internal frame packs have a frame inside the back panel. It's usually either plastic or aluminum. The aluminum ones are often adjustable, which is nice, but not something to worry about early on. Internal frame packs also tend to have a more complex suspension system. In my opinion, they're more comfortable, and I prefer them over external frames. The lack of metal bits jutting out means that internal frames are less likely to get caught on things, easier to cram in car trunks and other tight places, and they aren't as likely to get messed up if you have to toss them over a fence.
Along with being able to adjust the length of the shoulder straps, on internal frame packs there will be another set of straps where they connect to the top of the pack; these are the load lifter straps. Tightening them pulls the top of the pack closer to you're back, raising the center of gravity of the pack. When properly adjusted, these will form a 45 degree angle from the shoulder straps to the pack. With a higher center of gravity, you won't be bending forward as much while walking.
There may be similar straps where the hip-belt attaches to the pack, called stabilizer straps. These help pull the pack in closer to your back. Not all packs have them, but they're on quite a few.
On the back of many packs, you'll find straps going around the pack itself, but not connecting to anything else. These are compression straps. they're used to keep the load from shifting around too much. They can also be used to hold your tarp, cardboard, sleeping mat; just don't overload them, they aren't meant to hold much weight. Some top-loaders will also have similar straps on top specifically for holding tarps and sleeping mats.
Some packs will have straps dangling off of the bottom, these are to hold your sleeping bag in its stuff-sack. Other packs will have an extra compartment on the bottom for this. I prefer the enclosed compartment when I can get it. It helps keep your sleeping bag from getting too messed up.
When loading your pack, you want to keep the heaviest items, like any canned food or bottles of water, higher up, and as close to your back as possible. Keep the lightest gear, like sleeping bags, on the bottom. This way your center of balance is a bit higher, and you won't have to bend forward very far to keep your weight centered over your feet.
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
What to Bring (Part 2)
We've taken a look at the essentials (footwear, sleeping bag, rain gear, backpack), now let's look at the things that are helpful to have, but not absolutely required. You won't die without these, and they'll start to weigh a bit when they add up. Don't expect to carry all of these, you'll figure out what you want as you go, just make sure you have the gear from the list of essentials (What to Bring - Part 1). Some of these are things I wouldn't even bother carrying myself, but other people seem to. When most people make lists of things they suggest packing, these are the things that always change, but somehow end up near the tops of lists.
Whatever you bring, NEVER pack anything glass. NO GLASS. No glass jars, no glass bottles. Glass breaks. Your backpack is probably going to get beaten up along the way: throwing it over fences to climb them, using it as a seat to sit on, banging into trees in the woods. You don't want to reach into your pack and pull out a shredded, bloody hand.
Road Atlas/Map - A way to figure out where you are, where you're going, and how to get there (Rail maps/timetables, a rail atlas, or CCG help if you're planning on hopping trains). Not life-or-death because even when you're in the middle of nowhere, you're probably not going to be lost; you'll be on high-traffic roads, or following railroad tracks. You can look at maps in gas stations to find a route, or change route if you don't have a map/atlas. Definitely a very important thing to have while traveling, but you aren't likely to die without one.
Water Bottle/Canteen - Staying hydrated is important. You definitely don't want to die of thirst. If you don't feel like buying anything fancy, you can always get a gallon jug of juice (the sturdy jugs with threaded caps that some orange juice comes in work great). Stainless steel water bottles are great to boil water in with a small campfire/camp stove; boiling kills bacteria in any water you have to get from streams etc., and makes coffee/tea/etc an option. Wide mouthed plastic containers like Nalgenes are really good to have in the winter; the wider mouth is less likely to be blocked by ice, plastic insulates better and won't shatter as easily. A way to carry water should probably have been on the essentials list, but it's easy enough to improvise (I've used powerade bottles, soda bottles, gallon juice jugs, etc. a lot), that I didn't feel like cluttering that list up.
Plastic Bags - Grocery bags are great for keeping things like clothes, food, etc. together inside your pack. Overall, you want to compartmentalize your gear with these; that way, if water gets inside your pack or something inside leaks, not everything gets soaked. They don't take up much space or weight, they're free, and have plenty of uses. Large black garbage bags were mentioned in the basic list with rain gear, and if possible, heavy duty contractor bags are best. If you have a top-loading pack, you can line the inside with one to make it more water-proof. You can cover your stuff with one to protect it from rain. You can use one as an improvised poncho in the rain. If it comes to it, you can improvise a shelter with a few. Zip-lock baggies are a great way to protect cellphones, wallets, and other small items in the rain. They're great for food (obviously), seasonings, condiment packs from restaurants. The larger freezer bags are usefull for keeping dry foods in: like instant oatmeal, granola, rice. All of these things are relatively lightweight, and compress down to a small space.
Extra Clothes - Don't pack too many clothes. They weigh a lot, and if it comes to it, you can get more later. Aside from socks (very important), it's okay to bring a shirt or two. Bandanas can be useful sometimes, and don't weigh much or take up space. Pants are a bit heavy, I don't usually carry a second pair. You can always patch tears if you need to.
Sewing Kit - A needle and dental floss is usually all you'll need. The floss holds up a bit better than most sewing thread. Maybe a bit of material for patches: bicycle innertube works well (and has other uses), leather works great but weighs a bit more, pretty much anything.
Hat - It'll keep your head warm in the winter, and it will keep the sun off in the summer. Broad brimmed hats are good for the summer, providing much needed shade for your face, and ears (really important in desert areas, plains, etc). Stocking caps are good for winter, and collapse down small. Your life won't necessarily depend on one, but they're very useful to have.
Food - You don't necessarily have to keep food on you while you move (it can attract animals in the wild, bears aren't something to mess with). You'll be able to stay to areas with grocery stores and gas stations if you choose to. On the other hand, you don't want to go hungry, or limit how far you can go from town. Pack all food together (see grocery bag/ziplock bag above) and if you're in the wilderness, store it away from where you sleep. When picking foods, aim for lightweight, non-perishable, dry goods. Instant oats, grits, instant mashed potatoes, granola, ramen, instant soup, jerky, dried fruits. Avoid things that take a while to cook, aim for things that can be eaten without cooking, or with just hot water (instant anything basically). Canned goods are too heavy; one or two cans can be okay; more than that and you'll start to feel it. You won't likely need to plan for more than 3 days away from civilization. Multivitamins are a good supplement to your diet, to keep you from getting scurvy or anything like that (take them out of the bottle and keep them in a ziplock bag to save space and weight). Condiments are great for making things taste better, grab some packets from the next fast food place, gas station, whatever. Hot sauces in particular are good to have (some, like sriracha, come in plastic bottles. Remember, no glass.)
Drinks - Water is obviously something to have at all times, for both drinking and cooking. Instant coffee makes any morning better (you can usually get free hot water from gas-stations that serve coffee), or regular ground coffee if you have a way to prepare it, or don't mind the grounds in your cup. Tea is good. If you're traveling in the summer, you can carry some of that powdered Gatorade to make up for all of the electrolytes your body loses from sweating. Just remember to keep your water bottle clean if you're drinking anything sweet; the sugar will start to cake up in the threading around the lid and mouth.
Knife and/or Multi-tool - Good for cutting rope/string, sticks, food. A way to protect yourself if you have to. Multi-tools are great for most utility purposes, fixed blades are good for camp and protection.
Fire - Lighters don't take up much space or weight. Whether you smoke or not, it's good to keep one in your pocket (an extra or two in your gear isn't bad either). It can really help to have a campfire sometimes (obviously that deserves it's own page, be careful). Camp stoves are useful too, and can be relatively lightweight these days. Fire is one of the most basic skills/tools we have as humans, there's no reason to not have at least a lighter. You can get packs of matches cheap or free at most stores. They won't work when wet, but unlike lighters, they work fine in the cold.
Cooking/Eating Gear - Get a spoon. Pretty much anything you can eat with a fork, you can eat with a spoon, or chopsticks (easy to make on the spot). If you don't want to carry one, you can just grab them from fast food places and some gas stations as you go. I've recently started carrying a travel mug, and I don't think I'll go without one again. You can drink out of it. You can use it as a bowl. Pour some instant oats and boiling water in for breakfast, right before/after coffee. You can also use the disposable coffee cups from gas stations for the same thing if you don't want to carry one. Cooking gear isn't usually necessary, but you can have some basic gear without much space or weight. Aluminum foil can be used for cooking pretty much anything that doesn't need a pot. The stainless steel water bottle listed above could count as part of your cook set (liquids only though). If all else fails, you can cook shish-kebobs over a camp fire with some sticks.
Toilet Paper/Paper towels - Like it or not, eventually you'll be in the woods and have to shit. Toilet paper can also make good tinder to start a fire, you can use paper towels to wipe down cooking/eating gear after use. I usually try to keep a ziplock with a yard or two of t.p. in my pocket (you can just grab some from the next restroom stall you visit, same with paper towels). Just make sure to keep them dry, since you might need to use them for fire starting.
Cordage - Rope, clothesline, whatever. Good for tying up a tarp (Time to Sleep (Part 2)), lashing gear to a pack/frame, hanging food bags when camping, leash for a dog. You won't need a lot, you're not going mountaineering. Just grab one of those small 50' coils from the dollar store or walmart it'll last nearly forever. Bungee cords work fairly well for most purposes, and you'll find lots of them along the side of the roads.
Electronics - Cellphones (I use prepaids) are good for keeping in touch with friends and family, they can always call 911 in an emergency (even without minutes). If you can afford a smartphone, you'll have access to google maps (satellite view and street view to find spots to camp and hitch, can double as atlas/map category), music, videos; just find WiFi at a fast food place, library, etc to save minutes. If you get a free text app (I use google voice, it covers calls and texts for free), you'll be able to save a lot of minutes while around civilization. If you plan on hopping freight, some people carry radio scanners. They're supposedly great if you know how to use them; a way to find out which trains are going where, when they power up, and when the bull's been called on you. I have no clue how to use one, and haven't, but it might have made things easier. I carry a portable electric razor to trim the hair on my face/head. It helps to keep cool in the summer, and it's easier to get rides when I don't look like a feral mountain-man. Mine cost me $20 and is rechargable, the same store had $10 ones that ran on AA batteries. It's relatively lightweight, and I use it frequently enough to consider it worth having. Camera, digital or otherwise.
Hygiene - Toothbrush, toothpaste/powder, floss. You don't want your teeth to rot out. Soap is good to have for those times you have an opportunity to shower (truckstops, motels, friends). I usually keep first-aid things with this gear: bandages, neosporin, painkillers, rubber gloves (in case you're treating someone else), whatever you find appropriate. For females, you might want to add pads/tampons, etc.
Light - Eventually you're going to have to do something in the dark; whether it's setting up a tent/tarp, starting a campfire, looking through your gear, it helps to be able to see things. Flashlights, or better still, headlamps, are good to have around. You don't want anything big or heavy, like a Maglite; just get something small. If you can get one with a red setting, or red filter, that's even better. Red light won't mess up your night vision, and isn't quite as visible from far away.
Repair Gear - To fix things that break along the way it helps to have a few things. Duct tape will fix most things: holes in tarps, boots, some parts of your pack. You can also get it in narrower 1" wide rolls sometimes. It helps save space if you re-roll it around a straw or piece of cardboard. Zip-ties can help out sometimes. They don't weigh much, and you don't need to keep many on you if you carry them (a dozen or so will last long enough).
Sleeping Pad - Not really necessary unless it's cold out. They're sold at sporting goods stores, walmart, etc. No matter how warm your sleeping bag and clothing, if there's no insulation under you, you'll get cold fast. You can buy those cheap blue foam ones for about $5-10 usually. You can also use cardboard; just open a box up, cut/rip along one of the edges, and you'll usually get a 4-6 foot length of cardboard (this is what I tend to use). Those reflective, insulated windshield screens people use to keep their cars cool work well too, and and usually fold down relatively small; you can even find them laying along the side of the road every now and then.
I'll add to this list as I think of more, and as others are suggested. Feel free to suggest items and ask questions any time.
Whatever you bring, NEVER pack anything glass. NO GLASS. No glass jars, no glass bottles. Glass breaks. Your backpack is probably going to get beaten up along the way: throwing it over fences to climb them, using it as a seat to sit on, banging into trees in the woods. You don't want to reach into your pack and pull out a shredded, bloody hand.
Road Atlas/Map - A way to figure out where you are, where you're going, and how to get there (Rail maps/timetables, a rail atlas, or CCG help if you're planning on hopping trains). Not life-or-death because even when you're in the middle of nowhere, you're probably not going to be lost; you'll be on high-traffic roads, or following railroad tracks. You can look at maps in gas stations to find a route, or change route if you don't have a map/atlas. Definitely a very important thing to have while traveling, but you aren't likely to die without one.
Water Bottle/Canteen - Staying hydrated is important. You definitely don't want to die of thirst. If you don't feel like buying anything fancy, you can always get a gallon jug of juice (the sturdy jugs with threaded caps that some orange juice comes in work great). Stainless steel water bottles are great to boil water in with a small campfire/camp stove; boiling kills bacteria in any water you have to get from streams etc., and makes coffee/tea/etc an option. Wide mouthed plastic containers like Nalgenes are really good to have in the winter; the wider mouth is less likely to be blocked by ice, plastic insulates better and won't shatter as easily. A way to carry water should probably have been on the essentials list, but it's easy enough to improvise (I've used powerade bottles, soda bottles, gallon juice jugs, etc. a lot), that I didn't feel like cluttering that list up.
Plastic Bags - Grocery bags are great for keeping things like clothes, food, etc. together inside your pack. Overall, you want to compartmentalize your gear with these; that way, if water gets inside your pack or something inside leaks, not everything gets soaked. They don't take up much space or weight, they're free, and have plenty of uses. Large black garbage bags were mentioned in the basic list with rain gear, and if possible, heavy duty contractor bags are best. If you have a top-loading pack, you can line the inside with one to make it more water-proof. You can cover your stuff with one to protect it from rain. You can use one as an improvised poncho in the rain. If it comes to it, you can improvise a shelter with a few. Zip-lock baggies are a great way to protect cellphones, wallets, and other small items in the rain. They're great for food (obviously), seasonings, condiment packs from restaurants. The larger freezer bags are usefull for keeping dry foods in: like instant oatmeal, granola, rice. All of these things are relatively lightweight, and compress down to a small space.
Extra Clothes - Don't pack too many clothes. They weigh a lot, and if it comes to it, you can get more later. Aside from socks (very important), it's okay to bring a shirt or two. Bandanas can be useful sometimes, and don't weigh much or take up space. Pants are a bit heavy, I don't usually carry a second pair. You can always patch tears if you need to.
Sewing Kit - A needle and dental floss is usually all you'll need. The floss holds up a bit better than most sewing thread. Maybe a bit of material for patches: bicycle innertube works well (and has other uses), leather works great but weighs a bit more, pretty much anything.
Hat - It'll keep your head warm in the winter, and it will keep the sun off in the summer. Broad brimmed hats are good for the summer, providing much needed shade for your face, and ears (really important in desert areas, plains, etc). Stocking caps are good for winter, and collapse down small. Your life won't necessarily depend on one, but they're very useful to have.
Food - You don't necessarily have to keep food on you while you move (it can attract animals in the wild, bears aren't something to mess with). You'll be able to stay to areas with grocery stores and gas stations if you choose to. On the other hand, you don't want to go hungry, or limit how far you can go from town. Pack all food together (see grocery bag/ziplock bag above) and if you're in the wilderness, store it away from where you sleep. When picking foods, aim for lightweight, non-perishable, dry goods. Instant oats, grits, instant mashed potatoes, granola, ramen, instant soup, jerky, dried fruits. Avoid things that take a while to cook, aim for things that can be eaten without cooking, or with just hot water (instant anything basically). Canned goods are too heavy; one or two cans can be okay; more than that and you'll start to feel it. You won't likely need to plan for more than 3 days away from civilization. Multivitamins are a good supplement to your diet, to keep you from getting scurvy or anything like that (take them out of the bottle and keep them in a ziplock bag to save space and weight). Condiments are great for making things taste better, grab some packets from the next fast food place, gas station, whatever. Hot sauces in particular are good to have (some, like sriracha, come in plastic bottles. Remember, no glass.)
Drinks - Water is obviously something to have at all times, for both drinking and cooking. Instant coffee makes any morning better (you can usually get free hot water from gas-stations that serve coffee), or regular ground coffee if you have a way to prepare it, or don't mind the grounds in your cup. Tea is good. If you're traveling in the summer, you can carry some of that powdered Gatorade to make up for all of the electrolytes your body loses from sweating. Just remember to keep your water bottle clean if you're drinking anything sweet; the sugar will start to cake up in the threading around the lid and mouth.
Knife and/or Multi-tool - Good for cutting rope/string, sticks, food. A way to protect yourself if you have to. Multi-tools are great for most utility purposes, fixed blades are good for camp and protection.
Fire - Lighters don't take up much space or weight. Whether you smoke or not, it's good to keep one in your pocket (an extra or two in your gear isn't bad either). It can really help to have a campfire sometimes (obviously that deserves it's own page, be careful). Camp stoves are useful too, and can be relatively lightweight these days. Fire is one of the most basic skills/tools we have as humans, there's no reason to not have at least a lighter. You can get packs of matches cheap or free at most stores. They won't work when wet, but unlike lighters, they work fine in the cold.
Cooking/Eating Gear - Get a spoon. Pretty much anything you can eat with a fork, you can eat with a spoon, or chopsticks (easy to make on the spot). If you don't want to carry one, you can just grab them from fast food places and some gas stations as you go. I've recently started carrying a travel mug, and I don't think I'll go without one again. You can drink out of it. You can use it as a bowl. Pour some instant oats and boiling water in for breakfast, right before/after coffee. You can also use the disposable coffee cups from gas stations for the same thing if you don't want to carry one. Cooking gear isn't usually necessary, but you can have some basic gear without much space or weight. Aluminum foil can be used for cooking pretty much anything that doesn't need a pot. The stainless steel water bottle listed above could count as part of your cook set (liquids only though). If all else fails, you can cook shish-kebobs over a camp fire with some sticks.
Toilet Paper/Paper towels - Like it or not, eventually you'll be in the woods and have to shit. Toilet paper can also make good tinder to start a fire, you can use paper towels to wipe down cooking/eating gear after use. I usually try to keep a ziplock with a yard or two of t.p. in my pocket (you can just grab some from the next restroom stall you visit, same with paper towels). Just make sure to keep them dry, since you might need to use them for fire starting.
Cordage - Rope, clothesline, whatever. Good for tying up a tarp (Time to Sleep (Part 2)), lashing gear to a pack/frame, hanging food bags when camping, leash for a dog. You won't need a lot, you're not going mountaineering. Just grab one of those small 50' coils from the dollar store or walmart it'll last nearly forever. Bungee cords work fairly well for most purposes, and you'll find lots of them along the side of the roads.
Electronics - Cellphones (I use prepaids) are good for keeping in touch with friends and family, they can always call 911 in an emergency (even without minutes). If you can afford a smartphone, you'll have access to google maps (satellite view and street view to find spots to camp and hitch, can double as atlas/map category), music, videos; just find WiFi at a fast food place, library, etc to save minutes. If you get a free text app (I use google voice, it covers calls and texts for free), you'll be able to save a lot of minutes while around civilization. If you plan on hopping freight, some people carry radio scanners. They're supposedly great if you know how to use them; a way to find out which trains are going where, when they power up, and when the bull's been called on you. I have no clue how to use one, and haven't, but it might have made things easier. I carry a portable electric razor to trim the hair on my face/head. It helps to keep cool in the summer, and it's easier to get rides when I don't look like a feral mountain-man. Mine cost me $20 and is rechargable, the same store had $10 ones that ran on AA batteries. It's relatively lightweight, and I use it frequently enough to consider it worth having. Camera, digital or otherwise.
Hygiene - Toothbrush, toothpaste/powder, floss. You don't want your teeth to rot out. Soap is good to have for those times you have an opportunity to shower (truckstops, motels, friends). I usually keep first-aid things with this gear: bandages, neosporin, painkillers, rubber gloves (in case you're treating someone else), whatever you find appropriate. For females, you might want to add pads/tampons, etc.
Light - Eventually you're going to have to do something in the dark; whether it's setting up a tent/tarp, starting a campfire, looking through your gear, it helps to be able to see things. Flashlights, or better still, headlamps, are good to have around. You don't want anything big or heavy, like a Maglite; just get something small. If you can get one with a red setting, or red filter, that's even better. Red light won't mess up your night vision, and isn't quite as visible from far away.
Repair Gear - To fix things that break along the way it helps to have a few things. Duct tape will fix most things: holes in tarps, boots, some parts of your pack. You can also get it in narrower 1" wide rolls sometimes. It helps save space if you re-roll it around a straw or piece of cardboard. Zip-ties can help out sometimes. They don't weigh much, and you don't need to keep many on you if you carry them (a dozen or so will last long enough).
Sleeping Pad - Not really necessary unless it's cold out. They're sold at sporting goods stores, walmart, etc. No matter how warm your sleeping bag and clothing, if there's no insulation under you, you'll get cold fast. You can buy those cheap blue foam ones for about $5-10 usually. You can also use cardboard; just open a box up, cut/rip along one of the edges, and you'll usually get a 4-6 foot length of cardboard (this is what I tend to use). Those reflective, insulated windshield screens people use to keep their cars cool work well too, and and usually fold down relatively small; you can even find them laying along the side of the road every now and then.
I'll add to this list as I think of more, and as others are suggested. Feel free to suggest items and ask questions any time.
Getting Around (Part 1)
We've gone over basic equipment, and we've talked about how and where to sleep, but now it's time to actually talk about travel. That's why we're here. I've put it off for a bit to make sure nobody heads out and gets stranded in the middle of nowhere with no idea what to do (plenty of us have headed out with no idea what we were doing, it sucks).
Hitchhiking seems like a good place to start. It's less of a legal hassle if the cops stop you; it's a bit more acceptable to most people, so more beginners are likely to start with it; it's less likely to land you in the middle of nowhere with no idea where you are. If things go wrong, it's not likely to be too bad (despite what movies and T.V. might imply).
First, let's go over the horrible things we hear about hitchhiking and how those stories are exaggerated. Most of the stories hinge around the person picking you up being a crazy murderer, or you (the hitchhiker) being a crazy murderer (maybe you are, maybe you aren't; I don't know). Really, I've never had a problem with any of my rides. It does happen, from what I hear, but not anywhere near as often as people think. Almost all of your rides will come from great people, who are cool to hang out with. Jackasses are usually too self-absorbed to pick you up; so they weed themselves out of the equation most of the time (okay -- that's not so true for females; sexist douchebags do exist, and are a problem; so you still have to be prepared for jackasses)
If you get a bad feeling from someone, just decline the offer. You don't have to get in anybody's car, you're not desperate (even if you are, don't admit it). Some people advise texting a friend the license plate number, or memorizing it, but I've never bothered. If, through some horrible series of events, you end up in a vehicle with a serial killer, please don't let them take you to the middle of nowhere; if it comes to it, you can always pull the steering wheel to crash their car (their loss more than yours, as long as you buckled up). To sum things up: it's good to have plans in case things go wrong, but they really, really aren't likely to.
For now, I'll sum up the basics, and expand on it more in the next few posts. The basic process is really very simple; it's just a matter of waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.
First, you need to find an on-ramp on the outskirts of town in the direction you want to travel. For example, if you're heading South out of town, then aim for the southernmost ramp in town, otherwise all of the southbound traffic is likely to be heading somewhere else in town. You can usually take a city bus to get there pretty cheap if it's farther than you feel like hiking. You want an on-ramp with a shoulder wide enough to pull over, long and straight enough for the drivers to notice you (and decide to pick you up), with plenty of traffic, and somewhere to stand.
With practice, you'll find it easier to figure out which ramps are good, and which aren't worth your time, but even after years, you're still going to find yourself dealing with shitty spots. It's unavoidable, but as long as you're not in a hurry, it's not really a problem.
Once you find your on-ramp, you need to pick a spot to stand. Make sure to choose a spot in the grass, on the edge of the shoulder, with enough room for you to set your gear down and stand comfortably. Pick an easily visible spot; standing in front of a sign works well, since it's obviously going to be visible.
Now that you've found your spot, it's time to get a ride. If you can get a piece of cardboard (check some dumpsters), and a marker, make a sign in large, bold letters. Write either the name of your destination, or just the direction you're heading. Now, face into traffic holding your sign, or, if you somehow can't come up with one, just stick out your right arm and stick your thumb up.
That's it, you're hitchhiking now. All that's left is the waiting part. This is where patience comes in, you're probably going to be here for a while. You're not likely to get a ride in the first few minutes, it can take hours (in some very slow spots, days, but that's not too common). Sometimes you'll start to get impatient, or feel a little hopeless; just keep going, and keep your morale up.
I know this might not have seemed super informative, but there's not a whole lot to know about this part of it. There are websites out there that have more in-depth explanations and tips, but in the end it boils down to what I said earlier: you're just waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.
Some other sites to look at for more information: hitchwiki.org (regional information and laws, tips, another more informative guide) ... more later if I think of/come across any.
Hitchhiking seems like a good place to start. It's less of a legal hassle if the cops stop you; it's a bit more acceptable to most people, so more beginners are likely to start with it; it's less likely to land you in the middle of nowhere with no idea where you are. If things go wrong, it's not likely to be too bad (despite what movies and T.V. might imply).
First, let's go over the horrible things we hear about hitchhiking and how those stories are exaggerated. Most of the stories hinge around the person picking you up being a crazy murderer, or you (the hitchhiker) being a crazy murderer (maybe you are, maybe you aren't; I don't know). Really, I've never had a problem with any of my rides. It does happen, from what I hear, but not anywhere near as often as people think. Almost all of your rides will come from great people, who are cool to hang out with. Jackasses are usually too self-absorbed to pick you up; so they weed themselves out of the equation most of the time (okay -- that's not so true for females; sexist douchebags do exist, and are a problem; so you still have to be prepared for jackasses)
If you get a bad feeling from someone, just decline the offer. You don't have to get in anybody's car, you're not desperate (even if you are, don't admit it). Some people advise texting a friend the license plate number, or memorizing it, but I've never bothered. If, through some horrible series of events, you end up in a vehicle with a serial killer, please don't let them take you to the middle of nowhere; if it comes to it, you can always pull the steering wheel to crash their car (their loss more than yours, as long as you buckled up). To sum things up: it's good to have plans in case things go wrong, but they really, really aren't likely to.
For now, I'll sum up the basics, and expand on it more in the next few posts. The basic process is really very simple; it's just a matter of waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.
First, you need to find an on-ramp on the outskirts of town in the direction you want to travel. For example, if you're heading South out of town, then aim for the southernmost ramp in town, otherwise all of the southbound traffic is likely to be heading somewhere else in town. You can usually take a city bus to get there pretty cheap if it's farther than you feel like hiking. You want an on-ramp with a shoulder wide enough to pull over, long and straight enough for the drivers to notice you (and decide to pick you up), with plenty of traffic, and somewhere to stand.
With practice, you'll find it easier to figure out which ramps are good, and which aren't worth your time, but even after years, you're still going to find yourself dealing with shitty spots. It's unavoidable, but as long as you're not in a hurry, it's not really a problem.
Once you find your on-ramp, you need to pick a spot to stand. Make sure to choose a spot in the grass, on the edge of the shoulder, with enough room for you to set your gear down and stand comfortably. Pick an easily visible spot; standing in front of a sign works well, since it's obviously going to be visible.
Now that you've found your spot, it's time to get a ride. If you can get a piece of cardboard (check some dumpsters), and a marker, make a sign in large, bold letters. Write either the name of your destination, or just the direction you're heading. Now, face into traffic holding your sign, or, if you somehow can't come up with one, just stick out your right arm and stick your thumb up.
That's it, you're hitchhiking now. All that's left is the waiting part. This is where patience comes in, you're probably going to be here for a while. You're not likely to get a ride in the first few minutes, it can take hours (in some very slow spots, days, but that's not too common). Sometimes you'll start to get impatient, or feel a little hopeless; just keep going, and keep your morale up.
I know this might not have seemed super informative, but there's not a whole lot to know about this part of it. There are websites out there that have more in-depth explanations and tips, but in the end it boils down to what I said earlier: you're just waiting patiently, and visibly signaling in a place where the right traffic is passing and can pull over.
Some other sites to look at for more information: hitchwiki.org (regional information and laws, tips, another more informative guide) ... more later if I think of/come across any.
Saturday, December 21, 2013
Time to Sleep (Part 2)
Now that we've covered the types of places you're likely to find sleep, lets look at portable shelter. You don't necessarily need to carry this stuff, but you'll be a lot better off if you do. There are plenty of options, but the main choices are tent, tarp or "bivy sack".
Small backpacking tents, and 2-person tents are easy to find, and usually not too expensive. They're more private, better at keeping bugs and smaller animals out, warmer, and great at keeping the elements out (when treated right). On the other hand, they're the most complicated to set up, more visible, often heavier, and (unlike tarps) can't be used for anything else.
I prefer to travel with a tarp. You can get an 8' x 10' brown heavy-duty tarp for $10-$15 pretty much anywhere. If you go with tarp, you should try to carry a bit of thin rope, like clothesline, to tie it up with. You can tie it up in a few different ways to form a shelter, as long as there are things to tie it to. You can lay it on the ground or the floor of a squatted building to keep your sleeping bag from getting grimy. If all else fails, you can wrap it around your sleeping bag to keep the rain off (moisture from your body will condense inside and make everything damp though.) It can easily be strapped onto the outside of your pack without getting in the way too much. All you really need to fix it is duct tape.
Bivy sacks and bivy shelters are another, less common, category. A bivy sack is a water-repellent sack with a hood that you put your sleeping bag in. It's still permeable to water vapor, so it won't get clammy inside like the tarp would. A bivy shelter is somewhere in between a bivy sack and a small tent. They tend to be totally enclosed, and have a small tent-pole hoop to support it like a tiny tent. Both are very good, though a bit pricey. The sack leaves your face exposed, so it's usually used with a smaller tarp. They can usually be rolled up with your sleeping bag inside, to make carrying and set-up easier. These choices offer the lowest silhouette; you can easily set them up behind low bushes without being noticed.
If you can get a bivy sack and small tarp, go for it; otherwise, I swear by the $10 tarp. Tents are a bit more workable if you're camping in the woods alongside railroad tracks or in the middle of nowhere, where their larger silhouette and often lighter colors aren't a big worry due to lack of people.
Small backpacking tents, and 2-person tents are easy to find, and usually not too expensive. They're more private, better at keeping bugs and smaller animals out, warmer, and great at keeping the elements out (when treated right). On the other hand, they're the most complicated to set up, more visible, often heavier, and (unlike tarps) can't be used for anything else.
I prefer to travel with a tarp. You can get an 8' x 10' brown heavy-duty tarp for $10-$15 pretty much anywhere. If you go with tarp, you should try to carry a bit of thin rope, like clothesline, to tie it up with. You can tie it up in a few different ways to form a shelter, as long as there are things to tie it to. You can lay it on the ground or the floor of a squatted building to keep your sleeping bag from getting grimy. If all else fails, you can wrap it around your sleeping bag to keep the rain off (moisture from your body will condense inside and make everything damp though.) It can easily be strapped onto the outside of your pack without getting in the way too much. All you really need to fix it is duct tape.
Bivy sacks and bivy shelters are another, less common, category. A bivy sack is a water-repellent sack with a hood that you put your sleeping bag in. It's still permeable to water vapor, so it won't get clammy inside like the tarp would. A bivy shelter is somewhere in between a bivy sack and a small tent. They tend to be totally enclosed, and have a small tent-pole hoop to support it like a tiny tent. Both are very good, though a bit pricey. The sack leaves your face exposed, so it's usually used with a smaller tarp. They can usually be rolled up with your sleeping bag inside, to make carrying and set-up easier. These choices offer the lowest silhouette; you can easily set them up behind low bushes without being noticed.
If you can get a bivy sack and small tarp, go for it; otherwise, I swear by the $10 tarp. Tents are a bit more workable if you're camping in the woods alongside railroad tracks or in the middle of nowhere, where their larger silhouette and often lighter colors aren't a big worry due to lack of people.
Time to Sleep (Part 1)
Now that we've covered the bare minimum you'll want to have handy, let's look at that sleeping bag. In particular, let's look at where you'll be using it. I hate to be the bearer of bad news here, but unless you've got a bunch of money to spend on motels every night, most of your options aren't technically "legal" in the US (I can't speak for other countries' laws). You're not likely to run into much trouble, but it's something to be aware of. (Note: everything illegal after here is strictly hypothetical*, I'm not suggesting anyone break the law**)
The easiest choice is usually to camp somewhere out of the way. Honestly, I'd rather sleep out under the stars most nights anyway. It doesn't matter how you travel, this option is always open. Picking a spot to camp is going to be its own article, but at least try to find somewhere a little secluded. Try not to sleep where half the town will notice you; the more people notice you, the more likely someone is to call the cops (who will usually tell you to move along, but may give you a ticket for "Illegal Camping"). If it's likely to rain, and you don't have any shelter with you (next article), the ledge found underneath many bridges and overpasses is good, as long as it's not too visible.
Squatting an abandoned building. Unless the weather really sucks, this can be more trouble than it's worth. You're less likely to get noticed by most people, but if you are found, things can go downhill quick. Property owners can get violent, cops are way more likely to charge you with something (trespassing, B&E, burglary). Aside from those worries though, it's a good way to get some much needed privacy and quiet. It's also fun to explore, even if it's just a condemned old house. Obviously safety is something to keep in mind the whole time. There are other pages online with way more info on the topic.
Couches, floors, etc. Occasionally, you'll have friends or family in town who will invite you stay with them. Sometimes, if you're hitch-hiking, your rides will offer to let you crash at their place. There's also couchsurfing (google it); I have no experience with it, but plenty of people swear by it.
There are probably other options that I haven't covered, but these are the most common. I would love to go into more detail, and I'll try to add links to sites with useful info. If you have any questions, comments or ideas, leave a message in the comment section.
* - not hypothetical at all.
** - Bullshit, that's exactly what I'm suggesting when the law happens to be ridiculous.
The easiest choice is usually to camp somewhere out of the way. Honestly, I'd rather sleep out under the stars most nights anyway. It doesn't matter how you travel, this option is always open. Picking a spot to camp is going to be its own article, but at least try to find somewhere a little secluded. Try not to sleep where half the town will notice you; the more people notice you, the more likely someone is to call the cops (who will usually tell you to move along, but may give you a ticket for "Illegal Camping"). If it's likely to rain, and you don't have any shelter with you (next article), the ledge found underneath many bridges and overpasses is good, as long as it's not too visible.
Squatting an abandoned building. Unless the weather really sucks, this can be more trouble than it's worth. You're less likely to get noticed by most people, but if you are found, things can go downhill quick. Property owners can get violent, cops are way more likely to charge you with something (trespassing, B&E, burglary). Aside from those worries though, it's a good way to get some much needed privacy and quiet. It's also fun to explore, even if it's just a condemned old house. Obviously safety is something to keep in mind the whole time. There are other pages online with way more info on the topic.
Couches, floors, etc. Occasionally, you'll have friends or family in town who will invite you stay with them. Sometimes, if you're hitch-hiking, your rides will offer to let you crash at their place. There's also couchsurfing (google it); I have no experience with it, but plenty of people swear by it.
There are probably other options that I haven't covered, but these are the most common. I would love to go into more detail, and I'll try to add links to sites with useful info. If you have any questions, comments or ideas, leave a message in the comment section.
* - not hypothetical at all.
** - Bullshit, that's exactly what I'm suggesting when the law happens to be ridiculous.
Friday, December 20, 2013
What To Bring (Part 1)
"What should I bring?" Probably the first thing to figure out. In the long run, it'll boil down to personal preference and opinion, but at the very least there are a few things you'll want to make sure you've got. Knowledge and experience can help make up for a lack of gear, but these are the things you'll want to have with you regardless. These are pretty much the bare minimum; if you slack on these, you'll regret it.
1. Footwear - You're going to be on your feet most of day, so make sure you've got this covered. Have a comfortable, durable pair of shoes/boots, with good tread. I prefer boots, but don't bother with steel-toes, they're not worth their weight in most cases. Also, make sure you have a few pairs of comfortable socks; good, clean socks are one of those things most people take for granted without realizing it. You don't want blisters, you don't want fungus, they suck; take care of your feet. "Wear good shoes and socks" might seem like common sense now, but it's easy to overlook how important this is.
2. Sleeping Bag - After spending all day on you're feet, you'll spend the rest of the night sleeping (hopefully). This is probably the most important thing to have (aside from the shoes and socks you're probably already wearing). If it came down to it, you could lose everything listed after this and still be fine. It doesn't need to be fancy, but you get what you pay for. If you'll be out in colder weather, make sure you get one that's rated for colder temperatures; you can always sleep with it partially unzipped in the summer.
Some people use blankets (usually wool) instead, but it's harder to keep them from getting covered in dirt, so I advise against it, at least until you've gotten used to everything.
3. Jacket - Even if it's the middle of summer, there are always a few chillier nights. While you're awake, it can keep you warm, and at night, you can roll it up and use it as a pillow. If you can get one with a breathable, water-resistant lining (eg - Gore-Tex) that would be awesome, because you will be dealing with rain at some point.
4. Rain Gear - At the very least, I try to carry a small, collapsible umbrella. A poncho would be better. A couple large black trash bags can come in handy for keeping gear dry in the rain. This is probably the least necessary; if it really comes to it you can duck under trees, bridges, or into buildings to wait it out. Still, try to make sure you're prepared for rain, getting soaked sucks.
5. Backpack - You'll want something to put all of this in. The type of pack you choose will depend on what you choose to carry. Unless you go super-minimalist, you'll probably want something a bit bigger than a small day pack. You'll want to look for a decent hiking pack. You can find them in sporting goods stores, or online. There are two basic types: external frame packs, and internal frame packs. They both have advantages and disadvantages, and everybody has their preferences. I stick with internal frame packs; they fit into tighter places (car trunks for instance), they don't have metal bits jutting out to bang into stuff and snag on branches. Whatever you choose, remember that your backpack is really only as good as the gear it carries; the fanciest pack in the world is pretty much useless if it isn't carrying the gear you need. I'll go into more detail on packs later, in Your Backpack.
Overall, you want these things to be in relatively dull, dark colors. Brown, green, pretty much anything earthtone will work. If you fall asleep in a bright orange sleeping bag, next to a neon pink backpack, you'll either wake up to people hassling you or with all your gear stolen eventually. You want to be inconspicuous most of the time, and you'll actually want to be completely hidden some of the time; so go for the dull, boring colors on most of your gear if you can. Don't worry if you can't get everything in camo though, I've spent plenty of time running around with brightly colored pieces of gear, you'll just have to find a way to hide your stuff sometimes (another reason for the black trashbags mentioned with the rain gear).
1. Footwear - You're going to be on your feet most of day, so make sure you've got this covered. Have a comfortable, durable pair of shoes/boots, with good tread. I prefer boots, but don't bother with steel-toes, they're not worth their weight in most cases. Also, make sure you have a few pairs of comfortable socks; good, clean socks are one of those things most people take for granted without realizing it. You don't want blisters, you don't want fungus, they suck; take care of your feet. "Wear good shoes and socks" might seem like common sense now, but it's easy to overlook how important this is.
2. Sleeping Bag - After spending all day on you're feet, you'll spend the rest of the night sleeping (hopefully). This is probably the most important thing to have (aside from the shoes and socks you're probably already wearing). If it came down to it, you could lose everything listed after this and still be fine. It doesn't need to be fancy, but you get what you pay for. If you'll be out in colder weather, make sure you get one that's rated for colder temperatures; you can always sleep with it partially unzipped in the summer.
Some people use blankets (usually wool) instead, but it's harder to keep them from getting covered in dirt, so I advise against it, at least until you've gotten used to everything.
3. Jacket - Even if it's the middle of summer, there are always a few chillier nights. While you're awake, it can keep you warm, and at night, you can roll it up and use it as a pillow. If you can get one with a breathable, water-resistant lining (eg - Gore-Tex) that would be awesome, because you will be dealing with rain at some point.
4. Rain Gear - At the very least, I try to carry a small, collapsible umbrella. A poncho would be better. A couple large black trash bags can come in handy for keeping gear dry in the rain. This is probably the least necessary; if it really comes to it you can duck under trees, bridges, or into buildings to wait it out. Still, try to make sure you're prepared for rain, getting soaked sucks.
5. Backpack - You'll want something to put all of this in. The type of pack you choose will depend on what you choose to carry. Unless you go super-minimalist, you'll probably want something a bit bigger than a small day pack. You'll want to look for a decent hiking pack. You can find them in sporting goods stores, or online. There are two basic types: external frame packs, and internal frame packs. They both have advantages and disadvantages, and everybody has their preferences. I stick with internal frame packs; they fit into tighter places (car trunks for instance), they don't have metal bits jutting out to bang into stuff and snag on branches. Whatever you choose, remember that your backpack is really only as good as the gear it carries; the fanciest pack in the world is pretty much useless if it isn't carrying the gear you need. I'll go into more detail on packs later, in Your Backpack.
Overall, you want these things to be in relatively dull, dark colors. Brown, green, pretty much anything earthtone will work. If you fall asleep in a bright orange sleeping bag, next to a neon pink backpack, you'll either wake up to people hassling you or with all your gear stolen eventually. You want to be inconspicuous most of the time, and you'll actually want to be completely hidden some of the time; so go for the dull, boring colors on most of your gear if you can. Don't worry if you can't get everything in camo though, I've spent plenty of time running around with brightly colored pieces of gear, you'll just have to find a way to hide your stuff sometimes (another reason for the black trashbags mentioned with the rain gear).
Introduction
So you've decided you're interested in hitting the road. Whether it's a few weeks, or a few years, you want to see what it's like. Maybe you want to hitch-hike across your home state, maybe you want to hop freight trains across the country, maybe you're just curious and want to know more; whatever the case, if you're new to the road, there's a lot you probably want to know.
A quick search of the internet gives a handful of pages with detailed information and discussions about obscure, specific topics (what's the best multi-tool to carry, internal-frame pack or external-frame), and some with very vague advice for beginners. There really aren't many places for someone new to the topic to get a more specific understanding of what to expect and what you'll need, without having to sift through thousands of forum posts or dozens of sites.
That's what this site is here for: to discuss the things you'll need, without being too vague or too confusing. Over the next few posts, I'm going to try to cover everything you'll need to know to get by; starting off with the really important stuff, and moving on to smaller, less necessary details later.
I've been traveling on-and-off for about 5 years; so I'm not the most experienced traveler out there, but I can guarantee that what I do has worked for me. If there's ever anything you want to add or ask, feel free to leave a comment.
A quick search of the internet gives a handful of pages with detailed information and discussions about obscure, specific topics (what's the best multi-tool to carry, internal-frame pack or external-frame), and some with very vague advice for beginners. There really aren't many places for someone new to the topic to get a more specific understanding of what to expect and what you'll need, without having to sift through thousands of forum posts or dozens of sites.
That's what this site is here for: to discuss the things you'll need, without being too vague or too confusing. Over the next few posts, I'm going to try to cover everything you'll need to know to get by; starting off with the really important stuff, and moving on to smaller, less necessary details later.
I've been traveling on-and-off for about 5 years; so I'm not the most experienced traveler out there, but I can guarantee that what I do has worked for me. If there's ever anything you want to add or ask, feel free to leave a comment.
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